Ed Templeton of revolving restaurant Carousel, shares with U his favourite London eateries...
"Small plates, honest European cooking, low intervention wines, counter and communal dining..." Admittedly this could describe approximately 88% of the capital's recent openings but there's nothing cookie cutter about David Gingell and Jérémie Cometto-Lingenheim's unpretentious, Stoke Newington favourite. From the stylish surroundings - a 1930s motorcar garage on a tree-lined residential boulevard - to the convivial service, it's everything a neighbourhood restaurant should be, but the regularly changing food and wine menus are the true stars, elevating Primeur from local go-to par excellence to genuine must-visit status.
Selin Kiazim holds a special place in Carousel hearts. As one of our very first chefs in residence, we watched with pride as she went on to open her own place to universal critical acclaim. Imaginatively reinterpreting the Turkish-Cypriot flavours of her North London upbringing, Oklava does a mean trade in charcoal grilled delights like her Flintstone-sized çemen-glazed lamb cutlets. But to talk about the Shoreditch restaurant without mentioning Selin's signature Medjool date butter (so popular you can now buy it in Selfridges) would be a serious crime. It's life-changing stuff. Oklava is also one for committed brunchers, sick of the sight of hollandaise sauce.
It's hard to overstate how good Som Saa is. Nobody does hot, sour, salty and sweet better than these guys, at least not outside Thailand's northeastern Isaan region. Andy Oliver and co. have absolutely nailed it and thoroughly deserve all the breathless reviews and social media hagiographies coming their way. If you're the kind of person who makes it a point of principal to avoid hyped up restaurants like Som Saa then you'd just be cutting your nose off to spite your face. It might just be the narcotic bird's eye chillies talking but we are well and truly hooked. But as well as mastering the art of lesser known Thai dipping sauces, the guys also know what makes a great restaurant. Buzzy atmosphere, friendly and knowledgeable staff, killer cocktails and novelty bathrooms. Just go...
When it comes to neighbourhood gems, it's not unreasonable to assume that geographical bias plays at least a small part in the enjoyment of the locals they serve. A 7/10 can easily become an 8/10 when you don't have to catch an expensive taxi home... The same goes for places we eat on holiday. Was that spaghetti alle vongole really the best thing we ever ate or was it because we were wearing shorts and we could see the sea? That is unequivocally not the case with Trullo. Highbury Corner is hardly far-flung but this casually sophisticated, ostensibly-Italian-but-not-really restaurant would be as much of a hit in well-heeled Mayfair as it would in suburban Maidenhead. Experience-wise, it's just a lovely place to go for a meal, whatever the time of day, but it's the homemade primi that really clinch it for us. One bite of their famous beef shin ragù pappardelle and it's easy to see why Jordan Frieda and Tim Siadatan's spin-off pasta joint Padella has been such a smash hit. Your bill at Trullo will inevitably be bigger but then again you'll also have had four impeccable courses and a bottle of 2009 barolo, so it serves you right really.
Carousel was opened by Ed Templeton, his brother (and head chef) Ollie Templeton and cousins Anna and Will Templeton. The Marylebone restaurant and creative hub is one of the only places in the capital that showcases constantly revolving culinary talent.
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