Where to Dine Out in Venice

Venice-based cook and food writer, Skye McAlpine, shares with U her favourite must-visit dining destinations in the 'Floating City'.

There is no shortage of spectacular art, architecture or pretty canal views in Venice - but the food is certainly worth travelling for too. Just like across the rest of Italy, Venetian cuisine is uniquely regional: laced with spices, a throwback the city’s history as a trading capital in the 15th century, as well as Austrian influences which date back to the city’s occupation in the 19th century. Not to mention plentiful fresh seafood fished from the local lagoon and a bounty of local produce - some of which, such as the ‘moeche’ (tiny soft shelled crabs) or ‘canoce’ (mantis shrimps, served lightly boiled with olive oil and parsley) you can’t find anywhere else in the world. You can taste the city’s rich and diverse history with every meal.

Al Covo

A small, characterful and family run restaurant, hidden away in the sleepy Castello quarter. Some of the best food in Venice - most especially their deep fried zucchini flowers that are filled with ricotta and fresh mint, and their ricotta cake - which is light as air and best eaten still warm from the oven. The owners, Diane and Cesare, are absolutely enchanting and their passion for good, slow food is infectious.

Da Ivo

Another absolute favourite: the restaurant hasn’t changed in the thirty years I’ve been going there - other than since George Clooney hosted his stag party there, it can now be tricky to get a table. Definitely worth booking ahead for. Charmingly rustic decor and a menu that changes daily, according to the whim of the chef. When in season, you absolutely must have their fig and scampi salad which is sublime. Also not to miss is their warm zabaione for dessert - like creamy, boozy spoonfuls of air 

Da Celeste

The most magical Summer spot, far from the bustle of the centre of Venice on the fishing island of Pellestrina, which is a roughly 45 minute drive away by water taxi. You sit on the water with views of the open lagoon and indulge in the freshest seafood: spider crab, scallops cooked in butter and breadcrumbs, langoustines and juicy prawns. A vodka and lemon sgroppino to finish the meal off. 

All’Arco

I love this spot for a light lunch and a spritz. Hidden behind the Rialto fish market, it’s bustling and standing room only. Their speciality are ‘cicheti’ (Venetian tapas, of sorts) and the menu changes daily depending on what’s freshest at the market - but think lots of crudo and fresh seafood, often served on a chunk of creamy grilled polenta or crusty white bread drenched in olive oil.

Alla Madonna

Classic and wonderfully relaxed Italian food with a Venetian twist, of course, in a bustling trattoria hidden away down a dark alley near the Rialto Market. The waiters are charm personified and the menu is unchanged in the thirty years I've been going there, and always includes an excellent spaghetti alle vongole as well as wonderfully fresh fish from the market. Categorically do not miss their torta millefoglie, sheets of tissue paper thin pastry layered with thick custard and pieces of bitter dark chocolate. 

Ideal For

Venetian food


title

text