Connoisseur's Collection

Helen Chislett, founder of art advisory company, London Connoisseur shares her inside knowledge on some of the best restaurants internationally that also fly the flag for art.

La Méditerranée (Paris)

When Jean Subrenat opened the doors of La Méditerranée in 1942, he was fortunate enough to call on the help of two friends to help stamp it indelibly onto the Parisian scene: Jean Cocteau, who designed the logo, and Christian Bérard who created the fabulous murals that still adorn the walls today. It wasn’t long before friends of the artists were eating at this traditional seafood restaurant, including Cocteau’s arch conspirator, Picasso. No wonder it has been the go-to place for artists and actors ever since – those who have left illustrated thank you notes include Jane Birkin, Bette Midler, Lauren Bacall, Mick Jagger and Steven Spielberg, while the likes of Princess Margaret, Orson Welles and Liz Taylor also enjoyed its laid-back charms. Happily, the food lives up to the art, particularly if it is fish you crave – the Red Tuna Tartar is a favourite of mine, followed by Aioli of John Dory.

Sketch (London)

It would be impossible to talk about restaurants and art without giving Sketch the applause it deserves. To mark its 10th anniversary in 2012, owner Mourad Mazouz invited Turner Prize-winning artist, Martin Creed, to create an environment in the Gallery restaurant that is an exhibition, an artwork and a place to eat – no wonder tourists turn up just to gawp. Now British artist, David Shrigley, has been invited to follow in Creed’s footsteps with another artist-conceived environment. However, my personal favourite is The Glade at Sketch, an enchanted forest of decoupage conceived and created by artists Carolyn Quartermaine and Didier Mahieu. Another highlight is the Tempus clock by Ben Rousseau, a kinetic light sculpture that can be found on the first-floor landing. I’ll be honest – the two Michelin starred Lecture Room & Library upstairs is simply not my thing, plus I cringe at the idea of guests being asked to dress “with a sense of style and character”, but I do enjoy the all-day menu available in The Parlour and The Glade, particularly poached eggs with crab and celeriac remoulade.

Spring (London)

While we are still in London, Spring at Somerset House is my new favourite art-with-food location. For a start, the food is simply fantastic – the domain of Skye Gyngell whose genius is such that people are still fighting to nab a table at the out-of-town garden centre she so confidently put on the culinary map, aka Petersham Nurseries. I really do struggle to choose a dish given the fact I want everything listed, but if pushed I would opt for wild nettle risotto followed by scallops with cauliflower puree. But then there is the dining room itself – a joyous composition that harnesses some of the most inspiring talents in the worlds of art and design today – including Emma Peascod’s verre églomisé wall panel behind the bar, Lindsey Adelman’s branching, a bronze chandelier, and Valeria Nascimento’s wall installation of delicate porcelain blossoms. 

Pao at the Faena Hotel (Miami Beach)

Each December, I have an excuse to leave damp London and head for sunny Miami for the annual Design Miami/Basel show – it always lifts the spirits to see Christmas trees dwarfed by illuminated palm trees along South Beach avenues. Miami is the most glamorous place to eat, so it’s hard to pick one go-to, but Pao is a wonderful and inventive example of modern Asian cuisine, drawing on culinary styles that include Filipino, Spanish, Japanese and French, all expertly orchestrated by star chef, Paul Qui. If you enjoy the work of Damien Hirst, you will also love the environment – a golden unicorn by Hirst takes centre stage on a pedestal, while outside on the terrace is ‘Gone But Not Forgotten’, his 25-karat gold, woolly mammoth in a glass case. As homage to Hirst, you can even order a signature dish named Unicorn – in fact, crowned sea urchin with frothy sweet corn pudding, quite as fantastical as the creature itself.

La Colombe D’Or (South of France)

The thinkers and artists who flocked to the South of France (a “free zone”) in the 1940s to escape WW2 embraced La Colombe d’Or as a place of refuge – regular visitors included Matisse, Picasso, Léger, Miro, Braque and Chagall. Owner Paul Roux was happy to exchange paintings for a stay or a few meals, which means that today some of the art collection is so priceless and extraordinary, it would not look out of place in Tate Modern. Indeed the collection is still growing – the latest work being a large ceramic piece by Irish, artist, Sean Scully. Still run by the Roux family, the food is traditional, unpretentious Provencal but no less delicious for that – grilled peppers in olive oil, caramelised onions, beans, anchovies and aubergines . . . you get the picture (but step away from the Picasso).

Leuu Collection (Western Cape)

South Africa has some truly outstanding restaurants, but one of the best for art lovers is Leeu Estates at Franschhoek, about an hour’s drive from Cape Town, which showcases some extraordinary artworks and sculptures, including ‘Sit’by Angus Taylor, a powerful, figurative piece that literally does sit at the edge of the pool; the monumental ‘Artemis’ (accompanied by three massive, hunting dogs) by Deborah Bell that strides over the manicured lawns; and ‘Thinking Hare’ by Guy du Toit, which quietly contemplates the far horizons. The Dining Room at Leeu Estates does not disappoint either – chef Oliver Catermole favours local ingredients, such as Stellenbosch goat’s cheese with roasted asparagus and Karoo lamb with bacon, edamame, artichokes and peas.

Ideal For

Venues that draw a crowd


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